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Taster Is this your first time in the HobbyShed? Below are five links to pages within the site, randomly selected for you to sample. Glossary: A-Z of modelling terminology. 300+ entries! Gallery: Warhammer 40K - scratch built 1/1 Servo Skull Guides: Choosing paint and painting tools Visits: Birmingham NEC - toy collector's fair Guides: Comprehensive list of scale model sizes About Me My
name's Adam, I'm 30 and from the West Midlands
region of England in the UK. I've
been modelmaking and painting for around twenty years.Adam Bagley. Formerly Redditch, Worcestershire. I've come a long way since, learning through books, clubs and plenty of trial and error. I'm always happy to share my knowledge with others and I'm still as keen as ever to learn new things and to see how others approach their work. It's because of this that the HobbyShed modelling resource has been created with sharing in mind. I hope you enjoy your time in the shed. Modeling. Contact I'd like to know what you think about HobbyShed. Perhaps you've found a dead link, have some constructive criticism or know of an event or product worth reviewing? Whatever your input, I look forward to receiving your comments and suggestions - afterall, it's these that make a better resource. |
The more kits you build, the more you will develop your own technique and style. Each person is different in the way they approach the building of a model and so the following techniques are intended as a guide for the total beginner who has yet to develop techniques of their own. That said, there may be ideas below that prove useful to those who are proficient at model building. It certainly never hurts to learn about how other people approach their modelmaking. If you have specific modelling questions that need answering or techniques you'd like to share with other modelmakers, why not join the forum?
Injection Moulded Kits Always cut the component from the sprue using a craft knife, a pair of clippers or a pair of scissors. Cut close to the component. Never tear or twist them off as it can cause damage to the parts. If using a knife to cut sprue it is best to make sure that the component is supported whilst cutting, as sometimes the shape of the sprue is such that it holds the component off the surface. Cutting straight down onto the surface without support runs the risk of snapping the part before you actually cut through the sprue. Once a component has been removed from the sprue, the excess plastic can be trimmed off with a scalpel or knife. Clean-up work can then follow with a needle file or abrasive paper. If you find you have to remove a series of components from the sprue that aren't numbered but need to be assembled in a critical order, get a piece of plain paper and write the number order on it, then place the appropriate components next to the correct number. When using liquid polystyrene cement, dedicate a fine paint brush to applying it. Never apply the cement directly from the tube. Bottled cement sometimes comes with a thick brush as part of the lid but using a fine brush allows the accurate placement of the cement, even in hard to reach areas. If you accidentally spill cement onto an area of your model, do not touch it. Instead, run it under a cold water tap as this prevents the cement from attacking the surface further still. Whenever possible, apply cement to the inside surface of joints to be bonded. This helps to protect outer surfaces from damage. When waiting for cement to set, use masking tape, elastic bands, clothes pegs, bulldog clips, etc to hold the components together, freeing your hands to get on with the next stage of your build. There are also a number of clamps available to buy from hardware stores. Clear components, such as cockpit glass, can be glued into place with white glue instead of polystyrene cement or superglue. This eliminates the problem of rising vapours misting up clear components.
Vac Formed Kits Unlike injection moulded kits, vac formed components are supplied as a series of pieces moulded onto several sheets. Separate them from the sheets by cutting or scoring with a knife, close to the edge of the part where it joins the main sheet. If the plastic is too thick to safely cut through, partially score the plastic with a sharp craft knife and then carefully snap the waste plastic away from the component. Vac formed kit components don't have locating tabs so you will have to add your own. Don't throw the scrap plastic that surrounds the component on the moulded sheet away - use it to make your locating tabs! Poster tack or Plasticine proves useful when building vac formed kits. For example, it can add weight to the model or hold pieces in place while they are glued or painted.
Resin & White Metal Kits Although made from different materials, resin and white metal kits are similar in the way in which they are constructed. Both usually have casting blocks on the components that require removal before construction. To remove small casting blocks use a craft knife or a scalpel. To remove larger casting blocks, use a razor saw. Resin and white metal respond well to filing and sanding but you can also use a scalpel on both to shave off excess material. Some manufacturers produce 'accelerators' for superglue and these can prove useful when gluing metal and resin parts, ensuring a strong bond.
Vinyl Kits The treatment of vinyl kits is largely the same as the other kit types mentioned but the one significant difference is that they retain their shape when heated with a hairdryer. The heat softens the vinyl up slightly, making it easier to cut. |
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