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Taster Is this your first time in the HobbyShed? Below are five links to pages within the site, randomly selected for you to sample. Guides: Choosing a kit to suit your modelling ability Gallery: Ghost Rider - Horizon 1/6 Vinyl Model Kit Glossary: A-Z of modelling terminology. 300+ entries! Guides: Basic modelling techniques Visits: Sandwell Historic Vehicle Show About Me My
name's Adam, I'm 30 and from the West Midlands
region of England in the UK. I've
been modelmaking and painting for around twenty years.Adam Bagley. Formerly Redditch, Worcestershire. I've come a long way since, learning through books, clubs and plenty of trial and error. I'm always happy to share my knowledge with others and I'm still as keen as ever to learn new things and to see how others approach their work. It's because of this that the HobbyShed modelling resource has been created with sharing in mind. I hope you enjoy your time in the shed. Modeling. Contact I'd like to know what you think about HobbyShed. Perhaps you've found a dead link, have some constructive criticism or know of an event or product worth reviewing? Whatever your input, I look forward to receiving your comments and suggestions - afterall, it's these that make a better resource. |
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The West Midlands modellers modelers forum, scratchbuilt modeler's forums, scratchbuilding kit, modeler tutorial, model making glossary and guides on how to build and paint, modelmaking assembly kit and scratch built studio scale modeling web site, assembling website, resource or resources. Kits. Warhammer 40K. 40,000 or 40'000. Tau, Orks, Ork, Necrons Chaos space Marines and Imperial Guard. Primarchs, Emperor, Rhino, Land Raider and Sisters of Battle. Modeling. Rogue Trader. 28mm scale miniatures. games workshop at the Birmingham NEC. Golden Demon Awards, finalists and winners. |
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Gallery
Warhammer 40,000 Servo Skull - 1:1 Scratch Built Model by Adam Bagley Warhammer 40,000 is a science-fiction tabletop wargame produced by the British company Games Workshop. Played using 28mm (approx. 1:65) miniature models, it is set in a future that features many fantastical worlds, races, creatures and contraptions. One such contraption is the mysterious Servo Skull, a floating device used for spying, repairing and attacking on and off the battleground. I've been fascinated by Servo Skulls ever since they first started appearing in 40K (as Warhammer 40,000 is informally known) and in 2003 I decided to build from scratch a life-sized model based on them. 
A great deal of planning went into the construction. I started by working out the appearance of the model, drawing sketches to work from and writing down assembly ideas as I went along. Chosen features included cables trailing from the skull to make it look like it was flying, transparent support from the base to further emphasise flight and a bionic eye and laser. I soon realised the model needed to be light and balanced because of the nature of the base so I formed the bulk of the skull by covering an inflated balloon in papier-mâché. An area was left uncovered for access inside the skull and by using fine metal mesh I reinforced areas that I thought might come under stress later on. When it was dry, modelling putty was sculpted over the papier-mâché into a basic skull shape. When that was dry, the balloon was popped and removed. Next, I started to add features. Holes were drilled into the back of the skull and hardware bolts were inserted from the inside to act as pins for the cables. They were glued into place using two-part epoxy adhesive. The cables were constructed from aluminium tubes that fitted tight over the bolts. Net curtain wire was inserted into the tubes to prevent kinking whilst they were bent into shape. The tubing was then glued onto the bolts, again using two-part epoxy adhesive, and tops from super glue tubes were glued to the ends of each. 
Bolts and aluminium tubes were also used as a frame for the limbs. The limbs were made using wooden rod that was turned on a lathe, plastic knitting needles, a modelling clamp, insulated cable from an old electric fire, some parcel string and plenty of sculpted modelling putty. The ears were made from sink plug hole strainers and furniture studs. Furniture studs were also used across the top of the skull. With the basic structure complete, I started work on detail. The bionic eye housing was sculpted on with space left to affix a rubber part salvaged from an old camera. When dry, the edges were defined using a scalpel and abrasive paper. A section was cut from a metallic blue Christmas tree bauble and glued inside the camera part before it was glued into place as the lens. Plastic card was then used to fill the space between the eye and the ear. A piece of blue light reflecting rod was glued to the end of the main knitting needle on the right limb. This would represent the laser. 
The skull was again covered with modelling putty; a thin layer this time, with texture created by patting the pliable surface with rough abrasive paper and a toothbrush. When the putty was dry, the eye socket, nose, teeth and surface details were crafted using a mini drill and various grinding bits. Finally, the skull was tested for balance and positioning and, when I was happy with the results, a hole was drilled into its base and a small bolt was inserted from the inside and glued into place. The access hole in the skull was then sealed and blended in. The base was constructed out of thick MDF which was cut to shape using a table saw. A hole cutter was used to create holding for a transparent cylinder from a bird feeder, upon which the skull would rest. A hole was drilled into the top of the cylinder so that the bolt at the base of the skull could be fed through and secured to it a using a nut and washer. 
With the construction complete, I moved onto painting. I decided to work with acrylics and because of the large scale I wanted to keep the colour palette and highlighting simple and to a minimum. After covering the eye lens and the laser tip with masking solution, the skull and MDF base were given an undercoat of matt black, applied by aerosol. The skull was then given a coat of medium brown followed by a coat of medium flesh, both of which were stippled on. The eye housing, studs and portions of the ears were then drybrushed with gun metal and highlighted with silver before being lightly glazed with red ink. The cables were drybrushed medium brown and their connectors were drybrushed medium grey. Finishing touches included hazard stripes painted onto a section of the right limb, a transfer applied to the forehead and dirtying up by sporadically drybrushing medium grey and medium and light browns across the model. A paint-chipped effect was added to the hazard stripes by using black and silver paint. Special attention was given to the teeth; I smudged in brown, green and then yellow to get a decayed, rotted look. Finally, the model and base were given a coat of matt varnish and when this was dry the masking solution was peeled away, the cylinder was inserted into the base and the model was attached. Patches of gloss varnish were applied to the teeth. 
In conclusion, the model was a challenging build from start to finish. Some of the techniques mentioned took a long time to complete but, at the end of the day, it was a labour of love. I am particularly happy with how the paint job came out. I think the overall look is quite impressive given the limited palette. I am also happy with the eye lens and laser as natural light reflects off them in such a way that you'd think they were battery or mains operated. A very unusual and unique piece for my display cabinet! This model reached the finals of the Open Category at the 2003 UK Golden Demon Awards, a modelling and painting competition held annually by Games Workshop. Of all the competition categories, the Open is widely regarded as the toughest to compete in! |
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