Gallery
Ghost Rider - Horizon 1/6 Vinyl Model Kit
by
Adam Bagley
I think most people have heard of at least one of Marvel Comics superhero creations; Spider-man, X-men, Iron Man, Captain America, Daredevil, The Incredible Hulk, The Fantastic Four... There are quite a few but it was only fairly recently (thanks largely to the 2007 film starring Nicolas Cage) that Ghost Rider became better known to people in general.

Though there have been several takes on the character in the comics, Ghost Rider is probably best known as Johnny Blaze, a motorcycle stunt performer who sells his soul to demonic forces in order to save the life of his stepfather. Blaze is tricked in the deal and becomes the Ghost Rider, a supernatural skeletal warrior whose trademarks include a fiery skull, spikes, chains and motorcycles!
There have been several Ghost Rider model kits and busts available to the modelmaker in recent years. After much consideration, I chose to purchase the hollow vinyl Horizon kit as I liked the pose but also saw potential for tweaking it a little. I think the kit is no longer available commercially, but it does come up for grabs on eBay quite frequently, which is where I got mine from.
Working with hollow vinyl is very quick and easy. Most components require very little clean-up (usually just the occasional air bubble that needs filling in with modellers putty) and a bit of scoring and super glue bonds pieces together nicely. Because of the quick assembly time to make the box standard kit, this inspired me to get creative.
Repositioning the model
I decided early on that I wanted the figure to be seen holding a chain in a dramatic pose; the kit doesn't include a chain, but we'll look into this a bit further on down the page. The original pose is fairly close but to achieve what I had in mind I had to adjust the arms and legs slightly to make Ghost Rider look like he was stepping to one side, ready to whip with his chain.
The legs were cut across the ankles, the knees and at the top of the thighs near the groin. The right arm was cut at the elbow and the left arm was cut just below the gauntlet. Toilet tissue was stuffed inside the hollow inners revealed by the cuts and glued firmly in place with two-part epoxy adhesive. As soon as the adhesive cured, the tissue was made solid by soaking it with drops of super glue (I must warn that doing this produces a lot of fumes that sting the eyes, so please take precations). The solidified toilet tissue formed a superb surface for the leg components to be repositioned. Again, epoxy adhesive was used to bond the pieces in their new positions. The joins were then covered with modeller's putty and the top surface was blended in by hand to match the detail on the surrounding areas.
I wanted the left hand to be seen pointing rather than with open palm held up to Ghost Riders face (see box cover) so three fingers were lopped off and resculpted in a closed position. Rather than sculpt the hand while the putty was pliable, I just stuck a big blob of putty down and, when dry, carved and sanded it into shape.
Lots and lots of pointy bits
As you'd probably expect, the kit has a lot of individual spikes that need gluing into position. The spikes that come with the kit are fine as they are but I wanted mine to have a bit more length and a finer point, so using wooden kebab skewers I cut and sanded my own (see the below image on the right). In all, over seventy spikes were shaped by hand!
The model has a spiked knuckleduster and hand guard on the right fist but I didn't care much for these and so left them out. The model also features spurs, but again, I prefered to create my own from scratch using modelling putty and sheet styrene, the latter being punched through using a dot punch to create the spur wheels.
Adding the chain whip
If you search the internet for other build-ups of the Horizon Ghost Rider model, you'll notice some modelmakers have added a length of chain that's included with the kit to the right fist to make it look like Ghost Rider is armed and ready for a fight. This is a nice little enhancement to the model but all the builds I've seen have the chain dangling straight down and, in my opinion, the chain does look a little on the slim side.
To make my figure look really dramatic I wanted the chain to look far stronger and more animated. To achieve this, I purchased a meter of brass chain from my local DIY hardware store, making sure it resembled the look of the chain wrapped over the models shoulder (it's similar to the chain usually found attached to sink plugs). It's important to use chain made of brass or coated in brass as the pose is achieved through soldering the links together. Steel chain is no good as it requires a much higher temperature in order to be joined.
To get the chain posed, I drew a path of how I wanted it to bend on a piece of cardboard. The chain was positioned over the path and held in place with pin tacks. The link were then soldered together one by one (see the above image on the left). This is a very long, drawn out process but the end result is worth the effort.
Once the look of the chain was achieved, I covered any areas where a lot of solder had to be used with small, torn up pieces of toilet tissue soaked in super glue. This was done in such a way that the pieces of tissue could be painted up to look like flames leaping from the chain. Finally, the chain was glued into place on the fist and the ends were capped off with some balsa rod that I sharpened to a point with a pencil sharpener.
How to paint Ghost Rider
Painting Ghost Rider is actually fairly simple, despite his firey look. The whole model was sprayed with Plasticote flat black. The spikes, chains and other metallic bits were then carefully painted with Testors silver gloss enamel. The black areas followed, drybrushed with a mixed medium grey acrylic, followed by a lighter grey applied less sparingly. All metallic bits were then lightly coated in a thinned down black acrylic wash and the flames on the chain whip were painted exactly the same as the flames on Ghost Rider's head.
Ghost Rider's head was achieved in four stages, as pictured above.
First, the exposed skull area was brushed over with a medium brown acylic paint and the flames were covered with a white acrylic.
Next, the skull was brushed over with a flesh coloured acrylic and the flames with a red. The eye sockets were also painted in with the red.
Most of the flames were then heavily drybrushed with a yellow acrylic and yellow was applied to the inner area of the eye sockets too. The skull was lightly drybrushed with a pure white acrylic. The teeth and nose holes were then painted in with a watered down black before the teeth were picked out with a very light flesh acrylic mix.
The final stage saw the tips of the flames highlighted with a lighter yellow acrylic followed by white. The innermost part of the eye sockets were highlighted with the same light yellow. Paying special attention to direction, the finishing touch was to lightly drybrush the areas surrounded by the flames with a dull yellow to represent the reflection of light emitted from them. Modeler, modelers and modeling.
Once the painting was complete, the entire model was coated with matt, satin and gloss enamel varnishes. Metallic parts were covered in gloss, flames were coated in matt and the leather clothing was finished in either satin or matt varnish.
The base
The base is simply a piece of cut 18mm MDF, routed along one edge at 45 degrees. If you want to base your models but don't have access to a router, you should be able to buy bases of all shapes and sizes from good model shops. Alternatively, things such as wooden picture frames or box lids can be adapted instead.
The surface of the base was covered with layers of toilet tissue soaked in watered down PVA wood glue, which was sprinkled over with play pit sand and flock before it dried. When it had dried, the area was base coated with dark brown acrylic followed by various shades of brown acrylic paint drybrushed on to pick out the textures. These browns were allowed onto the lower arts of the boots to add a further touch of realism. Lastly, the outer edge of the base was neatly painted with black acrylic. |